A unisex collaboration with the denim brand Lee, which boasts a history of more than 100 years, has been realised, with two colour options: a bleached colour and a non-washed rigid colour with the characteristic vertical fading of left-twill denim, which can be said to be the face of Lee. The double-end design technique allows you to enjoy both the rider’s design and the work design, which are representative works, in one unique item.
Pre-orders will start on 19 Jan 2024 at the online store. The items will also be available for pre-order at the beautiful people Isetan Shinjuku store at a POP-UP event on the first floor of the Men’s Building from 7 February, and officially launch at all directly managed shops from 10 February.
This collaboration is based on two of the shining styles of the Masterpieces, the 101-J and the 91-J. The 101-J focuses on the details of the cowboy, while the 91-J focuses on the railway worker, a prominent occupation in the locomotive industry. By incorporating the DOUBLE-END technique, which allows the garment to be worn upside down, the new blouson has a new sense of value, in which two items originally created for different purposes coexist in one garment.
The oblique diagonal lines created by the crossing of the warp and weft yarns are called twill lines. Generally, most denim is made in right-hand twill, where the twill lines appear diagonally to the right, but Lee denim is made in left-hand twill, which is the opposite direction.
Why left twill?
Denim woven in left twill has a flatter fabric surface than right twill, which allows the yarns to move more flexibly, resulting in a smoother texture. The base model, the 101-J, was created with a focus on the cowboys of that time. The adoption of left-hand twill denim to follow the movements of cowboys, who perform strenuous exercise on a daily basis, led to the creation of Lee’s denim in left-hand twill up to the present day.
One of the features of the 101-J is the double breast pocket. They are positioned at an angle so that cowboys holding the horse's reins can easily access the pockets by crossing their hands, even when riding.
Workwear details unique to railway workers, such as a watch pocket on the chest to hold a pocket watch, which is essential for train operations, and large pockets.
Neovar buttons and workwear pivoting buttons. Denim yellow stitching and three white work stitches. Two different backgrounds coexist in every detail.
DOUBLE-END designs without the need for side lines; the rounded sleeves and voluminous silhouette of its pattern design.
Denim trousers can also be worn upside down to enjoy two different styles thanks to the double-end technique. The “101-Z” is a representative pant of Lee, which has been supplying functional pants for cowboys since the pre-war period, for example by adopting a zipper front fly for the first time when a button fly was generally used at that time. The “Z” in the lot number refers to the zip fly. It is also known that the actor James Dean, who was at the height of his popularity at the time, used them as his favourites, pushing denim, which had previously been regarded as workwear, onto the fashion scene in a big way.
The “101-Z” can be turned into the “11-Z” painted trousers by opening the zippers on both sides, changing the combination and turning the trousers upside down. You can enjoy work details such as large hip pockets, hammer loops and triple stitching that are unique to painter’s trousers.
In bleached colours, the beautiful vertical fade bite characteristic of left twill denim is one of the features. By focusing on the chemical wash and dyeing, it expresses an ageing effect similar to vintage denim.
The Lazy S stitch is an iconic detail in Lee denim trousers. The unique curve is an iconic design that adorns the backstyle.
Work details such as large hip pockets with straight stitching, hammer pockets and scale pockets allow workers to store a variety of tools to keep their hands free.
The coexistence of a denim-specific leather tag, a work-specific white tag and the Lee brand tag, which is unique to double-end trousers, is another casual attraction.
Original flasher created for this collaboration. The flashers of the 101-Z and the 11-Z are playfully attached to the waist and hem to symbolise the double-end, where the two items coexist.
Friday 19 January, 21:00pm-
pre-order available on beautiful people online store
Wednesday 7 Febuary
Pre-launch at beautiful people Isetan Shinjuku
POP-UP event on the 1st floor of Isetan Shinjuku Men’s Building
Saturday 10 Febuary
Officially launch in all beautiful people stores & online store
The H.D. Lee Mercantile Company was founded in 1889 by Henry David Lee as a wholesaler of food and household goods, and began manufacturing its own workwear in 1911, including bib overalls in 8oz denim. Since then, the company has revolutionised the jeans industry by creating numerous masterpieces such as the “101” cowboy trousers and the “Westerner”, the pioneer of white jeans. Today, Lee continues to offer modern denim based on functionality and quality, while taking its origins in workwear for cowboys and others. The brand is constantly evolving with the times.